Zuni Cafe Tuscan Chicken Fixed

 

At the bar. Ask for their fab Bloody

 

Anybody who has been to Zuni Cafe in San Francisco knows that their Tuscan Chicken for two is the bomb. It seems that Judy Rodgers transcribed her recipe and the Intertoobs have faithfully posted it as is. The problem is that her recipe is confusing as hell and the steps are not in the best order and there are missing ones on top of that. When I cook I always figure out what can be done as far ahead as possible without hurting the quality. Restaurants, of course, do the same thing so I'm sure this translation is probably close to how they do it too. I think her recipe was more of a stream of consciousness than "here's how we get it out of the kitchen".

I've added some notes in the ingredients and steps along the way. One thing I've noticed is that the dressing for the bread salad is extremely spare given the quantities. I usually double it and then you can judge for yourself how much is appropriate. If there's any left, you can always put it on the table.

Serves 2

Ingredients

• One small chicken, 2-¾ to 3-½-pounds [ed: the smaller the better, don't get a giant roaster, and splurge on a really good quality one. also: for 4, use two chickens if possible but that may be too much; the object here is to figure out the quantities of what you can get and remember it for the next time to scale it]
  
• 4 tender sprigs fresh thyme, marjoram, rosemary, or sage, about ½ inch long
• Salt [ed: kosher is good to draw out moisture]
  
• About ¼ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper [ed: more to taste for chicken]
  
• A little water
• Generous 8 ounces slightly stale open-crumbed, chewy, peasant-style bread (not sourdough) [ed: we often use Acme Sour Levain, but a nice Ciabatta works really well too]
  
• 6 to 8 tablespoons mild-tasting olive oil
  
• 1½ tablespoons Champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar
• Freshly cracked black pepper for vinaigrette
  
• 1 tablespoon dried currants
• 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar, or as needed [ed: taste for tanginess and remember that bread soaks up a lot of flavor]
  
• 1 tablespoon warm water
• 2 tablespoons pine nuts
• 2 to 3 garlic cloves, slivered
• ¼ cup slivered scallions (about 4 scallions), including a little of the green part
• 2 tablespoons lightly salted Chicken Stock or lightly salted water
• A few handfuls of arugula, frisee, or red mustard greens, carefully washed and dried

 

Do Ahead at Least One Day, Preferably More

1. Seasoning the chicken (1 to 3 days before serving; for 3-¼- to 3-½-pound chickens, at least 2 days): Remove and discard the lump of fat inside the chicken. Rinse the chicken and pat very dry inside and out. Be thorough- a wet chicken will spend too much time steaming before it begins to turn golden brown.

2. Approaching from the edge of the cavity, slide a finger under the skin of each of the breasts, making 2 little pockets. Now use the tip of your finger to gently loosen a pocket of skin on the outside of the thickest section of each thigh. Using your finger, shove an herb sprig into each of the 4 pockets.

3. Season the chicken liberally all over with salt and the pepper (we use ¾ teaspoon sea salt per pound of chicken). Season the thick sections a little more heavily than the skinny ankles and wings. Sprinkle a little of the salt just inside the cavity, on the backbone, but don’t otherwise worry about seasoning the inside. Twist and tuck the wing tips behind the shoulders. Cover loosely and refrigerate [ed: I usually put this in the meat drawer uncovered to pull out more water. less water means crispier skin].

 

Do Ahead on the Day

These really don't need to be any particular order. These can all be done well in advance which I always recommend.

• Cut the bread into a couple of large chunks. Carve off all of the bottom crust and most of the top and side crust (reserve the top and side crusts to use as croûtons in salads or soups). Brush the bread allover with olive oil. Broil very briefly, to crisp and lightly color the surface. Turn the bread chunks over and crisp the other side. Trim off any badly charred tips, then tear the chunks into a combination of irregular 2- to 3-inch wads, bite-sized bits, and fat crumbs. You should get about 4 cups. [ed: the idea here is to lightly toast the bread, not make croutons. also: it's just as easy to use the drizzle the olive oil on the bread and then toss it to distribute the oil]
•  Combine about ¼ cup of the olive oil with the Champagne or white wine vinegar and salt and pepper to taste.
  
• Place the currants in a small bowl and moisten with the red wine vinegar and warm water. Set aside.
• Slice up the garlic and scallions and saute them in the olive oil until softened not browned
  
• Rinse and dry the greens

Crunch Time

1. Remove the chicken from the fridge an hour or two ahead of time
2. Choose a shallow flameproof roasting pan or dish barely larger than the chicken, or use a 10-inch skillet with an all-metal handle. Preheat the pan over medium heat. Wipe the chicken dry and set it breast side up in the pan. It should sizzle.
   

3. Roast the chicken: Preheat the oven to 475°. (Depending on the size, efficiency, and accuracy of your oven, and the size of your bird, you may need to adjust the heat to as high as 500° or as low as 450° during the course of roasting the chicken to get it to brown properly. If that proves to be the case, begin at that temperature the next time you roast a chicken. If you have a convection function on your oven, use it for the first 30 minutes; it will enhance browning, and may reduce overall cooking time by 5 to 10 minutes.)

4. Place in the center of the oven and listen and watch for it to start sizzling and browning within 20 minutes. If it doesn’t, raise the temperature progressively until it does. The skin should blister, but if the chicken begins to char, or the fat is smoking, reduce the temperature by 25 degrees. After about 30 minutes, turn the bird over (drying the bird and preheating the pan should keep the skin from sticking). Roast for another 10 to 20 minutes, depending on size, then flip back over to recrisp the breast skin, another 5 to 10 minutes. Total oven time will be 45 minutes to an hour. [ed: the smart thing to do is write this down for the next time]
   

5. While the chicken is roasting, toss about ¼ cup [ed: or more. this is very spartan] of the tart vinaigrette with the torn bread in a wide salad bowl; the bread will be unevenly dressed. Taste one of the more saturated pieces. If it is bland, add a little salt and pepper and toss again.
6. Toss in the currents and garlic/scallions and pine nuts into the bowl
   
7. Place in a oven proof dish and lightly tent with foil. Into the oven right as you take the chicken out and while it's resting. Bake for about 10 minutes or so.
8. Remove the chicken from the baking dish and remove the excess oil and deglaze with about 1 Tbs of water or stock. This shouldn't take very long... just long enough to loosen the bits from the pan
   
9. Slash the stretched skin between the thighs and breasts of the chicken, then tilt the bird and plate over the roasting pan to drain the juice into the drippings. Set the chicken in a warm spot (which may be your stove top), and leave to rest while you finish the bread salad. The meat will become more tender and uniformly succulent as it cools. [ed: 9 & 10 are done simultaneously]
   
10. Set a serving platter in the oven to warm for a minute or two.
11. Add the greens to the bread salad and toss
    
12. Put the bread salad back into the serving bowl and drizzle with the pan juices
13. Carve the chicken and place on the bread salad
    

The finished product in all its glory

Original Instructions

Here for the record is the original instructions from Judy Rodgers:

1. Seasoning the chicken (1 to 3 days before serving; for 3-¼- to 3-½-pound chickens, at least 2 days): Remove and discard the lump of fat inside the chicken. Rinse the chicken and pat very dry inside and out. Be thorough- a wet chicken will spend too much time steaming before it begins to turn golden brown.

2. Approaching from the edge of the cavity, slide a finger under the skin of each of the breasts, making 2 little pockets. Now use the tip of your finger to gently loosen a pocket of skin on the outside of the thickest section of each thigh. Using your finger, shove an herb sprig into each of the 4 pockets.

3. Season the chicken liberally all over with salt and the pepper (we use ¾ teaspoon sea salt per pound of chicken). Season the thick sections a little more heavily than the skinny ankles and wings. Sprinkle a little of the salt just inside the cavity, on the backbone, but don’t otherwise worry about seasoning the inside. Twist and tuck the wing tips behind the shoulders. Cover loosely and refrigerate.

4. Starting the bread salad (up to several hours in advance): Preheat the broiler.

5. Cut the bread into a couple of large chunks. Carve off all of the bottom crust and most of the top and side crust (reserve the top and side crusts to use as croûtons in salads or soups). Brush the bread allover with olive oil. Broil very briefly, to crisp and lightly color the surface. Turn the bread chunks over and crisp the other side. Trim off any badly charred tips, then tear the chunks into a combination of irregular 2- to 3-inch wads, bite-sized bits, and fat crumbs. You should get about 4 cups.

6. Combine about ¼ cup of the olive oil with the Champagne or white wine vinegar and salt and pepper to taste. Toss about ¼ cup of this tart vinaigrette with the tom bread in a wide salad bowl; the bread will be unevenly dressed. Taste one of the more saturated pieces. If it is bland, add a little salt and pepper and toss again.

7. Place the currants in a small bowl and moisten with the red wine vinegar and warm water. Set aside.

8. Roasting the chicken and assembling the salad: Preheat the oven to 475°. (Depending on the size, efficiency, and accuracy of your oven, and the size of your bird, you may need to adjust the heat to as high as 500° or as low as 450° during the course of roasting the chicken to get it to brown properly. If that proves to be the case, begin at that temperature the next time you roast a chicken. If you have a convection function on your oven, use it for the first 30 minutes; it will enhance browning, and may reduce overall cooking time by 5 to 10 minutes.)

9. Choose a shallow flameproof roasting pan or dish barely larger than the chicken, or use a 10-inch skillet with an all-metal handle. Preheat the pan over medium heat. Wipe the chicken dry and set it breast side up in the pan. It should sizzle.

10. Place in the center of the oven and listen and watch for it to start sizzling and browning within 20 minutes. If it doesn’t, raise the temperature progressively until it does. The skin should blister, but if the chicken begins to char, or the fat is smoking, reduce the temperature by 25 degrees. After about 30 minutes, turn the bird over (drying the bird and preheating the pan should keep the skin from sticking). Roast for another 10 to 20 minutes, depending on size, then flip back over to recrisp the breast skin, another 5 to 10 minutes. Total oven time will be 45 minutes to an hour.

11. While the chicken is roasting, place the pine nuts in a small baking dish and set in the hot oven for a minute or two, just to warm through. Add them to the bowl of bread.

12. Place a spoonful of the olive oil in a small skillet, add the garlic and scallions, and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until softened. Don’t let them color. Scrape into the bread and fold to combine. Drain the plumped currants and fold in. Dribble the chicken stock or lightly salted water over the salad and fold again. Taste a few pieces of bread-a fairly saturated one and a dryish one. If it is bland, add salt, pepper, and/or a few drops of vinegar, then toss well. Since the basic character of bread salad depends on the bread you use, these adjustments can be essential.

13. Pile the bread salad in a 1-quart baking dish and tent with foil; set the salad bowl aside. Place the salad in the oven after you flip the chicken the final time.

14. Finishing and serving the chicken and bread salad: Remove the chicken from the oven and turn off the heat. Leave the bread salad to continue warming for another 5 minutes or so.

15. Lift the chicken from the roasting pan and set on a plate. Carefully pour the clear fat from the roasting pan, leaving the lean drippings behind. Add about a tablespoon of water to the hot pan and swirl it.

16. Slash the stretched skin between the thighs and breasts of the chicken, then tilt the bird and plate over the roasting pan to drain the juice into the drippings. Set the chicken in a warm spot {which may be your stovetop}, and leave to rest while you finish the bread salad. The meat will become more tender and uniformly succulent as it cools.

17. Set a platter in the oven to warm for a minute or two.

18. Tilt the roasting pan and skim the last of the fat. Place over medium-low heat, add any juice that has collected under the chicken, and bring to a simmer. Stir and scrape to soften any hard golden drippings. Taste-the juices will be extremely flavorful.

19. Tip the bread salad into the salad bowl. (It will be steamy-hot, a mixture of soft, moist wads, crispy-on-the-outside-but-moist-in-the-middle wads, and a few downright crispy ones.) Drizzle and toss with a spoonful of the pan juices. Add the greens, a drizzle of vinaigrette, and fold well. Taste again.

20. Cut the chicken into pieces, spread the bread salad on the warm platter, and nestle the chicken in the salad.